Friday, October 31, 2014

Heretic vs. Midnight Lightning Round 1

So yeah I learned a lot in the first round...a round in which I wholeheartedly got my ass kicked...

  • Early morning or late day sesh are best times. Depending on how warm the valley gets. But even mid 70s equates to bad conditions given how slick the features are.
  • Wow...those feet are SLICK. Luckily one of them can still be used during the opening sequence.
  • Close crimp left. This allows for a pivoting/drawing in effect vs open handed crimping (which only allows you to down-pull). Close crimping allowed me to static to the sidepull right.
  • After getting the press right, bump right to the pinch (a couple of dimples for the fingers, then engage the thumb against the arete). From there, get the left foot on and bump right again to the side pull.
  • The holds aren't so bad. The mantle isn't so bad either. Just a matter of putting the moves together and figuring out the rest of the beta ground-up!!!
  • The downclimb looks relatively mellow~ SCORE!!!
That's all for now on Round 1. Next up Round 2 (in March)!!!

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