As total luck would have it, and as much as I wasn't expecting anything more than a session at the local climbing gym (props to Nevada Climbing Center) while visiting family in Vegas, I woke up May 4th around 9am and was greeted with surprisingly cool temps and mass amounts of cloud cover. It was still a slight bit humid but nonetheless driving out I decided to make the most of this great "Summer" weather, dropped off the gf at the local Coffee Bean so she could study, and set off like a speed demon into the park for some covert bouldering!
The sun still peek out from time to time but not enough to stop me from hitting up a few problems. Also took the opportunity to hit up next season's mega project: Ride The White Horse. MAN those slopers are gonna be awesome come October! I'm super stoked! Definitely gonna be training all Summer for that baby!
Here are a couple of vids from my short but excellent sesh. This V2 was way harder than it looked, moved awkwardly, but nonetheless was pleasing:
This V1 had a rather committing slab move (book gives it V3?). I had to repeat it and do the direct version as the first attempt I veered off route and escaped up the easy exit to the right (V0):
See that short overhanging arete to the left? I vaguely remembered it from somewhere but then did some searching online...it's a V8/9 according to the FAist. "Blackbeard's Delight" haha So wrong but so right...check out Max's video. Fun power problem, hardest move is pulling your ass off the ground with the high heel hook. For the right hand, you can start on the big pinch he uses in the vid or a more square-cut pinch closer to the right heel hook. Using the latter I was able to pull my ass off the ground but was unable to generate enough power to hit the first jug. Once you reach the first jug (right hand), it tapers off to a nice V1 (the book gives this V4?). One move wonder, but I love short power problems so I'll definitely come back to this one in October as well:
Red Rocks - A Few New Boulders from Max Moore Photography on Vimeo.
Until next time~
Noel
No comments:
Post a Comment