Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Long Time No Blogging Pt II

Wow, it's been a while...let's see what's going on....

JTree Update

  • Progress on Streetcar - One move. One move away from topping out. It's actually very exciting. Just need to compress that dished out sloper. However the temps are starting to pick up, so I'm not so sure it'll happen this season...going back Easter morning for one last go before I escape the desert heat. I'm not stressin' though; it'll be there next season when it's cold again. Plus, it's not like I haven't worked on a single problem for 2 years before (see Outcast~) hehe.

  • Dream Sequence V6 - A sweet compression problem on sidepulls and slopers up to perfect edges, to more slopers. RtM showed me this problem, near the West Entrance. The rock is much like the smooth granite at Tram; very uncharacteristic of the typical and unforgiving Quartz Monzonite that JTree is infamously known for. Anyway I think I've got my beta down; very intricate and somewhat footwork intensive. However I think I've discovered an easier sequence through the beginning.

    - Start from the sit, but right heel on the right sloper, right hand on the lower incut crimp.
    - Crank the heel and slap up to the first slope.

    From there I have my beta down pretty well.

  • Yabo Roof Traverse V6. Ok, some breakage...urg...nothing bad. One Saturday morning after the rain had stopped, I decided to brush out the undercling (the original starting hold for the problem, not the slots as it is documented in the guidebook). As I started brushing, mud started coming out from underneath the hold. I figured I'd just clean it out as much as possible...unfortunately this lead to a HUGE chuck of stone falling out. Now the undercling is uber-bomber, vs. a pinch undercling. Great. Anyway I also decided to try a different sequence and ended up tearing off a huge knob off the lip. Great. After two breaks...urg. I decided to pack it up for the day on Yabo Roof rather than risk significant breakage. However I did manage to find good beta (for short people):

    - Lockoff on the undercling, right foot really high, pressed against a small slope under the undercling.
    - French flag left underneath to a highest (decent) foot.
    - Lock off and bump out left to the jug sidepull. The right foot at this point is providing compression force in conjunction with the left.
    - Flag out far left, edge into the crack if that feels ok.
    - Right hand static up to the first sharp jug.

    From there, finish off the traverse. I've finished the problem from there, so it's just a matter of repeating with a few strong moves added to the beginning of the sequence.

  • Gritty Butt Butter V4. Broke a start hold on here. oops...compression rocks...compression kills rocks too. It's ok though; I re-established from a sloper, making the problem more consistent. See Gritty Butt Butter V4

  • Master Cylinder V5 - Woulda sent it if it hadn't been for my buddy greasing up the hold prior to my attempts. DAMN!!!! Next time I guess...I'll chalk up that hold first. Damnit JPace!!!

  • Penguins in Bondage V4 is TALL!!!!!! Holy crap. Need spotters and crash pads for this one...

  • Steele Valley Update

  • Morpheus V4. Sent it. Super fun problem. Big gym-like moves between edges, to some precarious slab climbing. Almost a perfect climb, just that the holds are sharp as hell. However I hit it on a really cold and windy day after work, which left my fingers pretty numb. Great stuff.

  • The Shotgun Boulder is now home to some serious urban art. This wouldn't be so bad but we've lost a bunch of problems off the face. A bit too slippery to hold or step. Oh well. I think the city of Lake Elsinore may do something about it, though they say the land is actually county land and thus beyond their jurisdiction. The climbing community may need to sponsor some sign postings...

  • Whew!!! anyway that's it for now....I'd post pics but they'd be too big and I don't have much time to edit them....Until next time!!!!

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