Friday, October 31, 2014

Heretic vs. Midnight Lightning Round 1

So yeah I learned a lot in the first round...a round in which I wholeheartedly got my ass kicked...

  • Early morning or late day sesh are best times. Depending on how warm the valley gets. But even mid 70s equates to bad conditions given how slick the features are.
  • Wow...those feet are SLICK. Luckily one of them can still be used during the opening sequence.
  • Close crimp left. This allows for a pivoting/drawing in effect vs open handed crimping (which only allows you to down-pull). Close crimping allowed me to static to the sidepull right.
  • After getting the press right, bump right to the pinch (a couple of dimples for the fingers, then engage the thumb against the arete). From there, get the left foot on and bump right again to the side pull.
  • The holds aren't so bad. The mantle isn't so bad either. Just a matter of putting the moves together and figuring out the rest of the beta ground-up!!!
  • The downclimb looks relatively mellow~ SCORE!!!
That's all for now on Round 1. Next up Round 2 (in March)!!!

Monday, October 6, 2014

Sent The Yogi Variation V9

'Nuff Said~ haha Here's the vid:

Some Pointers:

  1. Don't rest at the rest point. It hurts the leg and if you cinch it in long enough, you cut off circulation. It's better and more energy efficient to just burn through it.
  2. Chalk up the sides of your PANTS to avoid the Chalk Bucket/Bag DAB. Then just slap your pants whenever you need to rechalk.
  3. DO NOT underestimate the V4 portion just because it's V4. It's "JTREE V4" i.e. it's burly and beta intensive depending on your body type. Have your beta DOWN.
  4. This problem takes more muscle than it does tendon strength. So you crimpers are gonna hate it, but you sloper/compression folks are gonna love it.
  5. The mantle is easier than it looks.